Why the electrical matters in a reno
Kitchens and bathrooms are where the biggest appliances and the most water meet. A kitchen designed around today's appliances can easily want more circuits than the house was built with: induction cooktop, wall oven, dishwasher, fridge, microwave, rangehood, and power at the island bench. Bathrooms add exhaust fans, heated towel rails, heat lamps, under-floor heating and better lighting.
In a lot of Wagga's older brick homes, the wiring and switchboard date from when a kitchen had one stove and a kettle. Renovating is the right moment to check what's behind the walls.
What we do
- Plan the layout with you and your builder or cabinetmaker, so power points end up where the appliances and benches actually are.
- New circuits for big appliances such as an induction cooktop or oven, with the cable sized for the load.
- Power points along the bench, in the island, in the pantry for the appliance garage, and inside cupboards for the microwave and rangehood.
- Lighting: LED downlights, strip lighting under the overhead cupboards, pendants over the island, mirror and vanity lighting. See lighting.
- Bathroom fans, heat lamps and heated towel rails, wired to switches or timers.
- Disconnecting and reconnecting the electrical side of appliances while the room is stripped out.
- Testing and the CCEW when it's finished.
How a reno job runs
- Look first. Nelson checks the switchboard and the existing wiring before anything is pulled out. It's better to find out now if the board has old ceramic fuses, no safety switches or a black backing board that could contain asbestos.
- Plan and quote. You get a written price for the electrical work, based on the plan.
- Strip-out. We make the old circuits safe so the demolition can happen.
- Rough-in. New cables and boxes go in while the walls are open, timed around the plumber and the cabinetmaker.
- Fit-off. After tiling and cabinetry, the power points, switches, lights and appliances are connected.
- Test and certify. Every circuit we've touched is tested and the certificate lodged.
The rules that apply
Safety switches on the circuits we alter. Under AS/NZS 3000:2018 and the national regulator advisory note on alterations, any circuit that's altered or added must have 30 mA RCD protection, installed at the switchboard. The rest of the house doesn't have to be upgraded unless the switchboard itself is replaced, in which case every circuit on the new board needs RCD protection (ERAC advisory note). Type AC RCDs can no longer be installed in new work in NSW.
Like-for-like is different. Swapping a single power point or light for an equivalent in exactly the same spot, without altering the circuit, counts as a repair and doesn't trigger the RCD requirement. Most renovations move things, so expect the altered circuits to need protection.
Old switchboards and asbestos. Bituminous backing boards made before 1987 may contain asbestos, and old fuse carriers can contain the friable kind. The NSW asbestos site advises using a licensed assessor and removalist, so if your board needs replacing and is suspect, that part goes to them and we work around it. See switchboard upgrades.
Older wiring. The NSW Government recommends having an electrician check homes built before 2000, and flags pre-1980s wiring as a particular risk. A renovation is a good time to do it. Our old house wiring guide explains what to look for.
No DIY. In NSW, any electrical wiring work needs a licence. That includes moving a power point while the wall is open. Homeowners and builders' labourers can't do it, and DIY work can void your home insurance.
Certificate. You get a CCEW for the work. Since 1 July 2026 it's lodged through the Building Commission NSW eCert portal within 7 days of testing, and a copy is emailed to you.
Will the switchboard cope?
An induction cooktop plus oven plus aircon in a Wagga summer is a lot of load. If the new kitchen adds big appliances, Nelson will look at whether the board has room for new circuits and whether your supply can carry the extra demand. If the board is full or still on fuses, an upgrade might make sense at the same time. You can get a rough price with our switchboard estimate before deciding.
Cost
Renovations vary too much for a set price. Send through your plan or a few photos and a description, and you'll get a written quote before work starts. The price depends on the number of new circuits, the appliances going in, how much old wiring needs tracing, and whether the switchboard needs work. Travel is free close to Wagga and charged further out.
Common questions
When should the electrician come in on a kitchen renovation?
Before the old kitchen comes out, so the circuits can be made safe and the board checked. Then again for rough-in once the walls are open, and finally for fit-off after the benchtops and tiles are done.
Does my whole house need safety switches if I renovate the kitchen?
No. Only the circuits that are altered or added need RCD protection. The whole house needs it only if the switchboard is replaced. We'll tell you which circuits are affected before we start.
Do I need a new circuit for an induction cooktop?
Often, yes. Induction cooktops draw a lot of power, and what's needed depends on the model you choose and what's already in the house. Send us the model number and we'll check the circuit, the cable and the switchboard before you buy.
Can my builder or cabinetmaker do the electrical?
Only if they hold the right electrical licence. In NSW, any electrical wiring work needs a licence, whatever the size of the job. You can check anyone's licence at verify.licence.nsw.gov.au. Ours is 374694C.
What if the old switchboard has asbestos?
A suspect bituminous board should be handled by a licensed asbestos assessor and removalist. We can tell you what we see, coordinate with them, and do the electrical side once it's safe.